A Call to Arms

Excess—that's what I love about the Palace Arms. And not just plain excess. Not cheap, tawdry, modern excess but classy, well-aged and dignified excess. The kind of excess that almost demands you don an ascot and monocle before partaking. And yet, there is no credit check at the door, no top-hat-and-tails requirement, no sign: YOU MUST BE THIS RICH TO RIDE THIS RIDE...

Which is, more or less, the only reason I was let through the door for this week's review of the Palace Arms at the Brown Palace. Seriously, who would have thought a guy like me would ever be let in a place where some of the appetizers sell for $500 -- an ounce? And forget just being let in: Who would have thought I'd end up having a favorite table?

Anyway, that's what's in store in this week's Cafe review, along with my restaurant critic's letter to Santa. On tap this year? Christmas wishes for everyone -- including Bobby Flay, PETA, the state legislature, Continuum East/West and, of course, me. -- Jason Sheehan