For a decade, La Praviana served up authentic Salvadoran cooking -- a rarity in this town -- from a neat-as-a-pin storefront on South Broadway. Kyle Wagner reviewed it soon after it opened, and raved about the pupusas; six years later, Jason Sheehan was just as charmed, calling its menu "a greatest-hits collection of every culinary standard south of Brownsville and Laredo."

But now La Praviana itself has gone south. Its space at 2231 South Broadway is empty, and a sign pronounces that the building is for lease. -- Patricia Calhoun