100 Favorite Dishes: Fish fry from GB Fish and Chips

As a countdown to the Best of Denver 2010, coming April 1, Cafe Society is serving up a hundred of our favorite dishes in Denver. Send your own nominations to cafe@westword.com.

Number 75: Fish fry from GB Fish & Chips

It's funny how things that seem so plain and ubiquitous in one place can take on a nearly mythic significance in another. Thus it was with me and fish fry. Back home, it was tough to find a restaurant that didn't do a fry-up on Friday nights. Here, for at least my first few years in town, it was virtually impossible to find one that did. And to find one that wasn't using tilapia, battering the fish in some kind of freaky microbrew batter, or serving the resultant mess dressed worse than any cheap hooker was akin to finding gold laying the street.

GB Fish and Chips, in its original cement-block pillbox on South Broadway, was what saved me from the depredations of fancy-pants fish fries. The beers served across the counters there didn't hurt either. And the fact that all the eating was done on picnic tables, out of plastic baskets and wreaths of fake newsprint? That was a nice touch as well.

Though nothing will ever take the place of those poverty-struck fish fries I remember from growing up in Catholic Country, GB's version is about as good as you're going to find in the area. And it stands as one of the great gathering places for Rust Belt refugees and friends from across the pond that Denver is likely ever going to see.

Hungry for more? The dishes in our countdown thus far are linked below:

No. 100 Chicken-fried steak from Lola
No. 99 Alaskan reindeer sausage from Biker Jim's Gourmet Dogs
No. 98 Mac-and-cheese fries from Jonesy's EatBar
No. 97 Soft egg ravioli from Prima
No. 96 Pho - any pho -- from Pho 95
No. 95 Assiette de charcuterie maison from Z Cuisine À Côté

No. 94: Cheeseburger from Larkburger
No. 93: BBQ Masher from Cabin Creek Smokehouse
No. 92: Apple pancake from the Original Pancake House
No. 91: Burrata from Osteria Marco
No. 90: Eggs Benedict from Devil's Food Bakery
No. 89: Chile Relleno from La Fiesta
No. 88: Deviled eggs from Steuben's
No. 87: Corn-in-a-cup from Jack-n- Grill
No. 86: Enchiladas from Taco House
No. 85: Pupusas from Pupusas Sabor Hispano
No. 84: Baklava from Ali Baba Grill
No. 83: Masa-fried oyster shooters from Deluxe
No. 82: Tacos al pastor from Los Carboncitos
No. 81: Salsa bar from Tacos Y Salsas
No. 80: Dim Sum from Star Kitchen
No. 79: Green chile cheeseburger from Cherry Cricket
No. 78: Fries from Encore
No. 77: Shanghai-style dumplings from Chopsticks China Bistro
No. 76: Chile relleno burrito from El Taco de Mexico

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