Guess where I'm chile?

Ugly green chile.jpg
Lori Midson

Smother love: It's easy being green in Denver in September, when the smell of roasting chiles overrides the odor of exhaust along Federal Boulevard, and the green chile at your favorite Mexican joint carries the heat of the new harvest.

For the next several weeks, Cafe Society will feature some of our favorite green chiles. We started last week with Phil's Place, and continued through El Tejado, La Fiesta, Bonnie Brae Tavern, Benny's, Lola and Mezcal, where the green chile is redolent with Anaheim chiles and jalapeños.

Today's green chile doesn't photograph particularly well -- at least not the takeout version -- but it's an excellent verde nonetheless, stocked with pork, chiles that really pack a punch and bold spices. It's whipped up in the kitchen of a new restaurant, whose owner swears it's the best "Colorado" green chile you'll ever taste. That may be a stretch, but it's certainly a formidable contender.

Can you guess where I'm eating?

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