Now open: El Olvido

Carne en su jugo at El Olvido

Almost two months after Jorge Pingarron first told Cafe Society that he was opening a "Mexican, but not Mexican" restaurant on South Broadway, the native of Acapulco has made good on his word: El Olvido opened last night with a fiesta, and when we stopped by today, there wasn't a taco, burrito or enchilada in sight.

The spacious spot (it once held a Mr. Steak!), decked out in aluminum and dark marble, is lined with booths and tables centered around a U-shaped bar where tequila is featured prominently, and bottles of Chilean, Argentine and Spanish wine -- every single bottle ringing in at $24.95 -- sit in racks. Negro Modelo and Dos Equis are on tap; the latter is the beer used for Micheladas, a lime and beer blend in a salted glass, and Micheladas Rojas, that same base with Clamato added.

The focused board features an appetizer list -- dominated by things like molten queso fundido, refried beans studded with corn, and hot wings with avocado sauce -- and a handful of entrees: steaks, a Jaliscan filet of fish and, as promised, the Guadalajara specialty, carne en su jugo.

Food orders come with a dish of cilantro, onions and lime, plus a basket of tortilla chips and tangy, wicked-hot salsa made with Serrano peppers -- and if that doesn't pack enough spice for you, the chef makes a hotter habañero version, too.

The restaurant is open from 11 a.m. until 10 p.m. seven days a week.