100 Favorite Dishes: Bouillabaisse from Deluxe

Lori Midson

No. 63: Bouillabaisse from Deluxe

In 2004, when Dylan Moore opened Deluxe on a stretch of Broadway that had yet to burgeon, he wasn't entirely sure his moody little food temple was going to make it, but over the years, the tiny restaurant that could has steadfastly evolved into one of our favorite hangouts in the city, in part because of the intimate chef's counter that overlooks Moore's culinary kingdom, but mainly because of Moore's command performances in that kingdom.

He doesn't change his menu every five minutes -- or even every five months -- and he doesn't bow to faddish trends, and that's just fine with us, because if it ain't broke, why fix it? He did, however, redo his board just over a month ago, and while he's toying with changing it more often than he has in the past, we're praying to the gastronomic gods and goddesses that he doesn't do a damn thing with the bouillabaisse, because not only is it one of our favorite dishes -- it is, without a shred of doubt, the best bouillabaisse in Denver. Moore perfumes the soup, sea-soaked with pudgy mussels, shrimp, fleshy cubes of sea bass and whatever else he feels like lobbing in, with saffron and fresh fennel, and serves the generously portioned bowl with triangles of focaccia, streaked with grill marks and smudged with a pervasive rouille smooched with garlic.

Hungry for more? All the dishes in our countdown are linked below:

No. 100: Italian wedding soup from the Squeaky Bean
No. 99: American Classic Burger (and fries) from Tarbell's
No. 98: E's clam linguini from Mangiamo Pronto
No. 97: Queso a la plancha taco from the Pinche Tacos wagon
No. 96: Prosciutto-wrapped jalapeño poppers from Tony's Market
No. 95: Fried chicken from the Pinyon
No. 94: Seafood soup from Farro

No. 93: Posole from The Porker
No. 92: Breakfast Burrito from the Taco Wagon in Lafayette
No. 91: Hummus from Shish Kabob Grill
No. 90: Albondigas meatballs from Solera
No. 89: Lemon-ricotta doughnuts from Olivéa
No. 88: Döner kabob from Shondiz
No. 87: Roasted cauliflower salad from Euclid Hall
No. 86: Beef cheek enchiladas from El Diablo
No. 85: Fried Brussels sprouts from Panzano
No. 84: Pork osso buco from Osteria Marco
No. 83: Cazuela Colombiana from Cafe Brazil
No. 82: Chicken potpie from Devil's Food
No. 81: Sichuan braised beef noodle soup from Zoe Ma Ma
No. 80: Larb nua from Taste of Thailand
No. 79: Pork shank from Argyll
No. 78: Truffo panino from Shangri-La Cafe
No. 77: Pig-snout tacos from Guadalajara Authentic Mexican Buffet
No. 76: Speck and maple ice cream from Pizzeria Basta
No. 75: Tom yum goong from Thai Flavor
No. 74: South African black ruff from TAG
No. 73: Gumbo from Bistro One

No. 72: New England clam chowder from Bittersweet
No. 71: Celery and lime popsicle from Spuntino
No. 70: Curried split pea soup from Modmarket
No. 69: Mais pizza from Pizzeria Locale

No. 68: Risotto frutti di mare from Firenze a Tavola
No. 67: Frico caldo from Frasca Food & Wine
No. 66: Sea scallop and rock shrimp noodle bowl from Bones
No. 65: Luther Burger from Crave
No. 64: Chongqing Chicken from East Asia Garden

In late 2009, we embarked on a culinary journey that took us through our favorite dishes in the Mile High City -- one hundred, to be exact. Now we're back with round two, counting down (in no particular order) a hundred more of our favorite Denver dishes in a list that, by our imperfect calculations, should be wrapped up...sometime this year. If there's a dish you think we need to try, tell us about it in the comments section below, or shoot us an e-mail at lori.midson@westword.com.

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Location Info

Deluxe - CLOSED

30 S. Broadway, Denver, CO

Category: Restaurant

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