Reader: Will Frank Bonanno's BBQ beat "mediocre at best on a drunk night"?

Frank Bonanno 3.jpg
Lori Midson
Business could be smokin' at Frank Bonanno's Russell's Smokehouse.
Frank Bonanno is about to expand his empire, adding Russell's Smokehouse to the vast underground area in Larimer Square where Green Russell is already located.

"I'm not doing traditional barbecue, or Texas barbecue, or Kansas City barbecue, or St. Louis-style barbecue," he tells Lori Midson. "I'm doing barbecue my way -- casual and fun and making use of a lot of rubs rather than sauces, and while there's a lot of good barbecue around here, it's mostly served on paper plates with wet wipes, and I want to do something nicer and little more high-end than that -- a sit-down place with a bar, real plates and napkins."

In a town starved for good barbecue, what kind Bonanno will be cooking matters less than how good it is. Consider this from Barfly 2:

Nobody yet does a kick ass job with BBQ! Sorry to say, most of it is mediocre at best on a drunk night. I look at BBQ like a sushi joint, it can never be slow and most always run out of everything daily. It just doesn't hold, especially here with the dry weather. It will be interesting to see if the skills are there to pull it off.

But Jeff is more optimistic:

If these means I can get that Green Russell fried chicken all the time, I'm in.

Join the Russell's Smokehouse conversation already under way here.

Or for more on barbecue in Denver, see our list of the "Five best BBQ joints in Denver."

Location Info

Russell's Smokehouse

1422 Larimer St., Denver, CO

Category: Restaurant


Advertisement

My Voice Nation Help
2 comments
MP
MP

I could not be more excited for this expansion. To all the haters and those filled with skepticism... who cares. It will be another great Bonanno restaurant, and I personally cannot wait.

dan5280
dan5280

Can Larimer Associates move past their love affair with Frank and bring in some equally exciting local restaurantaurs?  It's becoming Bonanno Row, and frankly (pun intended) it's getting boring.

Now Trending

From the Vault

 

Loading...