Reader: Will Frank Bonanno's BBQ beat "mediocre at best on a drunk night"?
Frank Bonanno is about to expand his empire, adding Russell's Smokehouse to the vast underground area in Larimer Square where Green Russell is already located.
Lori Midson Business could be smokin' at Frank Bonanno's Russell's Smokehouse.
"I'm not doing traditional barbecue, or Texas barbecue, or Kansas City barbecue, or St. Louis-style barbecue," he tells Lori Midson. "I'm doing barbecue my way -- casual and fun and making use of a lot of rubs rather than sauces, and while there's a lot of good barbecue around here, it's mostly served on paper plates with wet wipes, and I want to do something nicer and little more high-end than that -- a sit-down place with a bar, real plates and napkins."
In a town starved for good barbecue, what kind Bonanno will be cooking matters less than how good it is. Consider this from Barfly 2:
Nobody yet does a kick ass job with BBQ! Sorry to say, most of it is mediocre at best on a drunk night. I look at BBQ like a sushi joint, it can never be slow and most always run out of everything daily. It just doesn't hold, especially here with the dry weather. It will be interesting to see if the skills are there to pull it off.
But Jeff is more optimistic:
If these means I can get that Green Russell fried chicken all the time, I'm in.
Or for more on barbecue in Denver, see our list of the "Five best BBQ joints in Denver."