Paxia, from the owners of Los Carboncitos, opens in Sunnyside

By Lori Midson Fri., Aug. 12 2011 at 6:00 PM

Lori Midson

When we got wind that the León brothers -- Ignacio, Roberto and Ceasar -- were unleashing Paxia, a new Mexican restaurant in Sunnyside, we were overcome with fits and bursts of enthusiasm, hoots and hollers of joy, and an overwhelming urge to sling a sleeping bag over our shoulders and camp out the night before the doors opened. After all, the León clan owns three outposts of Los Carboncitos, which is one of our favorite taquerias in Denver.

Paxia, which opened today, is not Los Carboncitos. Not even close. Which is not to insinuate that it should be Los Carboncitos. But while sipping iced tea at the citified bar, its wood shiny and new, the tile sleek and shimmery, I was admittedly wistful -- wistful for the caddy of incendiary salsas that you get immediately at the taquerias; wistful for tacos al pastor, the desert-sunset-hued grease streaking my chin; wistful for an horchata and huaraches.

Paxia is the anti-Los Carboncitos, tricked out with lovely fabrics and wallpapers, conversation-piece walls studded with crosses, vintage Mexican posters and even flip-flops. The light fixtures are fancy enough to illuminate a palatial estate in the Polo grounds, the chairs -- some of which remind me of The Jetsons -- everything but plastic.

And the menu, which is served all day, is -- and I hate saying this -- stupid expensive for lunch. A seafood molcajete is $24.99; three flautas with guacamole will empty your wallet by $10.99; a fajita burrito is $8.99; carne asada is $16.99, and so are the shrimp fajitas. And if you're pining for carne asada tacos, served with a heap of undressed greens, chew on this: They're $13.99. I want this place to do well; in fact, I want it to thrive, but Christ on a crutch, when lunch -- in this case, camarones with mushrooms and flecks of guajillo flakes, a mound of rice, more leaves and an iced tea -- sets me back $23, including tip, I kinda freak the fuck out. Seriously?

The space is beautiful, the plates are artistic and the margaritas are potent, but is it worth it? You be the judge. In the meantime, here's a taste, in photos, of what you can expect.

Lori Midson

Tamales.

Lori Midson

The "cross" room, where, coincidentally, a priest was seated.

Lori Midson

Shredded beef flautas.

Lori Midson

Camarones flameados con ojuelas de guajillo.

Lori Midson

The bar.

Location Info

Venue

Map

Paxia - Alta Cocina Mexicana

4001 Tejon St., Denver, CO

Category: Restaurant

1 user reviews	Write A Review
Save to foursquare

Tags:

Los Carboncitos, Mexican, Paxia - Alta Cocina Mexicana

We Recommend

Troublitas

Visiting mi hita y mi nieto, familia en Denver de Tucson; este comida es fantastico!It is well worth every bite! Service impeccable and management friendly. We had thePoblano chile sopa and the nopalitos tlacoyos. Mi nieto Jonny promptly knockedover the sorbet desset "event" and we enjoyed the positive vibe por la Buena Gentein Denver's incredible North side. This is traditional indigenous comidaand that is extraordinary to find, coming from the Old Pueblo here. Paxia will evolve beautifully and we will support los hermanos @ this Alta Cocina.~ Laurita Naranjo y Familia, Tucson, AZ.

Jdog4267

A quick check online reveals ANOTHER establishment of some duration and reputation in Orlando, FL called.........wait for it.....Paxia, Alta Cocina Mexicana.

Um....WTF?!

Any connection?Did somebody screw up the due dilligence?

Otherwise, I smell a lawsuit, regardless of the food quality or prices.

Seriously?!

birth.golf.death.

who cares? sounds like you've way too much time on your hands. way to focus on the negative.

ballpark

As I understand it, restaurant names are registered by state, so unless this similarly named restaurant in FL has dealings under that name in CO or is registered here, there is nothing they can do.

davebarnes

Our dinner last night was quite enjoyable and reasonably priced.The wine prices are excellent--for a restaurant.

Mantonat

This place seems to have the same ambition as a place like Lola, with similar prices. Is Lola stupid expensive? I guess without an indication of how the food is at Paxia, it's hard to judge. It's a great looking space and probably a lot of money went into the decor, so hopefully equal thought went into the quality of the ingredients. $23 isn't too much to pay for a GOOD lunch. Maybe it wasn't good? Maybe the stupid cheap prices at Los Carboncitos set you up for sticker shock?

Lori Midson

When I go to a restaurant that's been open for less than thirty minutes -- and I've eaten exactly one dish -- I'm not going to "judge" the food. But, hey, there are plenty of review sites out there for you to peruse that do. As for sticker shock, I've been doing this long enough to become immune, but feel free to take me out to lunch and pick up the check.

Spencer

They do have a more reasonably priced lunch menu now. Although, I find it hard to have sympathy for someone that racks up a $23 lunch when, at the time of this review, they had a very nice burrito on the menu for $8.99. I guess some people need to have their menu options limited for them at lunch time so they don't spend too much. My wife and I have been here three times now. Each time we've had something incredible and had amazing service. It's definitely a step up from the normal Mexican fare that you can find in Denver. The owners have Los Carboncitos merely blocks away if you want some cheap, but great street food. Paxia continues to exceed my expectations. If you are looking for the same fare as every other Mexican joint in Denver, don't bother. However, if you want something creative, check it out.

Mantonat

I'm only wondering if it was worth it or not. "Freak the fuck out" seems to indicate not. As for taking you out to lunch, I'd love to! Have you been to El Guero Taquero taco stand that generally sets up in a parking lot on W. Evans? Best $6.50 I've spent in a while and you get to watch the cook roll the dough balls for the gorditas right in front of you.

Mantonat

Tejon, northeast corner.

guest

where on w. evans?

Lori Midson

My food was predictable and pedestrian, and the salsas, of which there are two, were even less so, but as I pointed out, I was there on day one, when, obviously, they're still working out the kinks. Great margarita, however. And, no, I haven't been to El Guero, but with your recommendation, I'll be sure to go. Thanks for the tip!