Foodography: Wazee Wood-Fire Pizza opens today downtown

Lori Midson

The space, bedecked with reclaimed tractor chairs (not the most comfortable seating I've seen), scaffolding planks shelved with Italian products, many of which chef Jeff Russell uses on his pizzas, a white-stained wooden community table and an open kitchen exposing a black Bakers Pride, gas-fired Il Forno Classic pizza oven, feels requisitely -- and deliberately -- urban. "It carries the same design theme of District Meats, insomuch that it has a casual, warehouse district vibe," says Russell.

And the pizzas -- thin-crusted, bereft of char and judiciously roofed with ingredients like Brussels sprouts, smoked salmon and duck confit -- are cosmopolitan, too. "We're using really high-quality ingredients, but we don't have a litany of them, because Charlie wanted to keep it simple," explains Russell, adding that the products that grace the shelves -- Roseli tomato paste, imported flour, Alta Cucina plum tomatoes, Bellagio pure olive oil -- are all part of the "kitchen's commitment to using the products that perform the best."

And the oven, notes Russell, which arrived in Denver the same day he did, is "designed for consistency and temperature maintenance." The oven will be fueled by wood -- a mixture of apple, pecan and hickory -- to impart flavor, and the pizzas, depending on their size, spend anywhere from seven to twelve minutes surrounded by embers. In addition to whole pies, Wazee is also hustling slices, along with a veal and ricotta meatball grinder, salads and a salumi plate sourced from Il Mondo Vecchio.

I stopped by on Saturday to get a taste of what Russell and his team have planned, and while I didn't sample the grinder or salads, I tried just about every pizza, including the Aristocrat, which was definitely my favorite. Herewith, the photos of that pizza -- and more.