100 Favorite Dishes: Dolmades from Axios Estiatorio

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Lori Midson

No. 37: Dolmades from Axios Estiatorio

For several years, Royce Oliveira, the exec chef of Axios, cooked alongside Frank Bonanno at Mizuna and Luca D'Italia, neither of which are Greek restaurants. And, in fact, Oliveira, by his own admission, had, up until very recently, never cooked Greek food in his life, which makes it all the more fascinating that he's turning out beautiful Greek cuisine at Axios, a new restaurant in Berkeley. His menu, a romp of traditional Greek dishes, deserves appreciation, and while just about every dish I've tried at Axios has convinced me that Denver finally has a Greek restaurant worthy of a resounding opa!, it's Oliveira's astonishing dolmades that are the most convincing proof. These are not the dolmades that sag in the bottom of a can, which is what most Greek restaurants pass off. Nor do all grape leaves come in jars. No, these dolmades are house-made marvels of chubby cigar-shaped, blanched green leaves squeezing a fusion of onions, garlic, pine nuts and red wine-soaked rice, the latter of which goes a long way in separating them from all others. And the lemon-spritzed cream sauce on which they squat is sublime.

Hungry for more? All the dishes in our countdown are linked below:

No. 100: Italian wedding soup from the Squeaky Bean
No. 99: American Classic Burger (and fries) from Tarbell's
No. 98: E's clam linguini from Mangiamo Pronto
No. 97: Queso a la plancha taco from the Pinche Tacos wagon
No. 96: Prosciutto-wrapped jalapeño poppers from Tony's Market
No. 95: Fried chicken from the Pinyon
No. 94: Seafood soup from Farro

No. 93: Posole from The Porker
No. 92: Breakfast Burrito from the Taco Wagon in Lafayette
No. 91: Hummus from Shish Kabob Grill
No. 90: Albondigas meatballs from Solera
No. 89: Lemon-ricotta doughnuts from Olivéa
No. 88: Döner kabob from Shondiz
No. 87: Roasted cauliflower salad from Euclid Hall
No. 86: Beef cheek enchiladas from El Diablo
No. 85: Fried Brussels sprouts from Panzano
No. 84: Pork osso buco from Osteria Marco
No. 83: Cazuela Colombiana from Cafe Brazil
No. 82: Chicken potpie from Devil's Food
No. 81: Sichuan braised beef noodle soup from Zoe Ma Ma
No. 80: Larb nua from Taste of Thailand
No. 79: Pork shank from Argyll
No. 78: Truffo panino from Shangri-La Cafe
No. 77: Pig-snout tacos from Guadalajara Authentic Mexican Buffet
No. 76: Speck and maple ice cream from Pizzeria Basta
No. 75: Tom yum goong from Thai Flavor
No. 74: South African black ruff from TAG
No. 73: Gumbo from Bistro One

No. 72: New England clam chowder from Bittersweet
No. 71: Celery and lime popsicle from Spuntino
No. 70: Curried split pea soup from Modmarket
No. 69: Mais pizza from Pizzeria Locale

No. 68: Risotto frutti di mare from Firenze a Tavola
No. 67: Frico caldo from Frasca Food & Wine
No. 66: Sea scallop and rock shrimp noodle bowl from Bones
No. 65: Luther Burger from Crave
No. 64: Chongqing Chicken from East Asia Garden
No. 63: Bouillabaisse from Deluxe
No. 62: Crue fries from D Bar Desserts
No. 61: Chili gobi from Jai Ho
No. 60: New Mexican eggs Benedict from DJ's Berkley Cafe
No. 59: Lamb vindaloo from Cuisine of the Himalayas
No. 58: Gazpacho verde from Zolo Grill
No. 57: Hama Hama oyster from Jax Fish House-Denver
No. 56: Mixiote de borrego from El Trompito Taqueria
No. 55: Samosas from the British Bulldog
No. 54: Mole verde with carnitas from Tarasco's
No. 53: Pork chop from Le Grand Bistro & Oyster Bar
No. 52: Santa Fe skillet from Hits the Spot Diner
No. 51: Pork tenderloin with bread pudding and green split peas from the Wooden Table
No. 50: Noodle jelly salad from Thai Street Food
No. 49: Telluride jalapeno poppers from Encore
No. 48: Carnitas from Araujo's
No. 47: Croque Madame from Pierre Michel Organic French Bakery Cafe
No. 46 Xiao Long Bao from Lao Wang Noodle House
No. 45: Pasta puttanesca from Sketch
No. 44: Chimayo-chile flank steak and posole at Village Cork
No. 43: Sobrebarriga from La Cocina de Paula
No. 42: Raw carrot salad from Ambria
No. 41: Goat curry from Phat Thai
No. 40: Rail Yard Ale and cheddar soup
No. 39: Pad Thai pig ears from Euclid Hall
No. 38: Panna cotta from Il Posto

In late 2009, we embarked on a culinary journey that took us through our favorite dishes in the Mile High City -- one hundred, to be exact. Now we're back with round two, counting down (in no particular order) a hundred more of our favorite Denver dishes in a list that, by our imperfect calculations, should be wrapped up...before Best of Denver® 2012. If there's a dish you think we need to try, tell us about it in the comments section below, or shoot us an e-mail at lori.midson@westword.com.

Location Info

Axios Estiatorio

3901 Tennyson St., Denver, CO

Category: Restaurant

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