Photos: Brandon Biederman unleashes the biggest menu change in the history of Steuben's

Steubenssteubiesnacks.jpg
Lori Midson
Here today, gone tomorrow: These days, that's the siren song of more and more menus, many of which change monthly, some weekly, others daily, which means that if you get too attached to a dish, at some point -- sooner rather than later is the most likely scenario -- you'll be jilted by its abrupt farewell.

But Steuben's, which opened six years ago in Uptown, has steadfastly adhered to its earnest (and enduring) culinary culture, turning out a self-respecting, well-oiled roster of American regional classics that have remained largely untouched, save for a few seasonal bust-outs.

Over the past month, however, chef Brandon Biederman and his kitchen comrades have been toying with the menu, and for the first time since the retro roadhouse opened, there's a substantial collection of new dishes (and only memories of several old mainstays like the fried cheese). "My sous chefs were itching to make some new food, and about a month ago, we starting putting things in motion," says Biederman, who credits his kitchen staff for inspiration. "A lot of the dishes were ideas from our staff, who have been cooking the same thing day after day after day and really wanted the opportunity to make some great new stuff."

Most of the new dishes, notes Biederman, have been offered as specials, which, he says, "flew out the door." The breakfast bierock -- also called a runza -- for example, an old-world yeast-risen bread pocket that's historically filled with beef, sauerkraut, cabbage and spices. Here, though, it's bulked with scrambled eggs, red onions, scallions, bacon and cheddar cheese -- and washed with maple syrup.

But when you prod Biederman to divulge his favorite dishes from the new menu, which include, among other things, mussels and housemade chorizo; peel-and-eat shrimp; Chinatown chicken wings; chicken and waffles; a sausage and pepper sandwich; a patty melt; spaghetti puttanesca; a New York strip with mustard seed butter; and Steubie snacks -- or Uptown pork crack, which were first introduced on the Steuben's food truck -- he breaks into a wide grin and simply says, "You should eat all of it, because everything is really, really good."

After further contemplation, however, Biederman scours the menu and chooses a repertoire of dishes that he thinks makes the ideal square meal -- and he's right: They're all dishes I'd eat again and again. Herewith, the feast.

Location Info

Steuben's Food Service

523 E. 17th Ave., Denver, CO

Category: Restaurant


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11 comments
Barbara
Barbara

Patty Melt! i'm there.

Jenn the Godless
Jenn the Godless

Steubie Snacks make me happy in my heart. Since Thai Cockroach Palace is off my list, I think I'll replace it with another trip to Steu's. That lemon curd dessert needs my mouth to complete the circle of eat.

Codylee
Codylee

"The breakfast bierock -- also called a Runza -- for example, an old-world yeast-risen bread pocket that's historically filled with beef, sauerkraut, cabbage and spices. Here, though, it's bulked with scrambled eggs, red onions, scallions, bacon and cheddar cheese -- and washed with maple syrup."Isn't this just a Hot Pocket? It seems to be stretch to say that it is a variation of a Runza (which is a fast food restaurant in the midwest).. 

BSquared
BSquared

I look forward to the menu changes but I am crushed that the Fried Chicken is no more. That was among if not the best Fried Chicken in Denver

Jeff
Jeff

Steubie snacks are one of the greatest inventions of the 21st century.  Glad to be able to get them year round now.  

Mantonat
Mantonat

1. The restaurant chain Runza is named after the food item runza, not vice versa.2. Hot Pockets are made with flaky pastry-style dough, not yeast-risen dough.3. So it's not a stretch to say it's a variation of a runza, which is just a stuffed bun. It's probably more accurate to say that Hot Pockets are also variations of the runza/bierock.4. And "just" a Hot Pocket? More food should attempt to attain the level of late-night drunken binge food (or early morning hangover food) perfection.

Lori Midson
Lori Midson

My bad. The fried chicken is still very much on the menu; I meant to write fried cheese -- not chicken.

Hot pockets
Hot pockets

A runza (also called a bierock, fleischkuche or Kraut Pirok) is a yeast dough bread pocket with a filling consisting of beef, pork, cabbage or sauerkraut, onions, and seasonings.I would not really call it just "stuffed" bun.. Whatever you throw in it makes it a Runza.. not so.. 

http://www.hotpockets.com/prod...

according to their website, I would say many of their "pockets" are made with a yeasted bread.

So yeah.. I would say it has a lot more in common with a Hot Pocket than a Runza.. 

BSquared
BSquared

Thanks for the correction Lori! I had to quick abort my occupy Steubens campaign!

HankG
HankG

 I think Lori means fried chicken, not fried cheese.

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