Il Mondo Vecchio gets cheeky with guanciale, salumi
DeNittis, the king of Colorado salumi, is strict about his meat. "It's simple," he says."I do what they did for thousands of years. I don't add any junk. It's simply high-quality meat that's humanely treated, raised and slaughtered." Not only is IMV the best place in town to find guanciale, it's the only salumi processor in the state that has USDA inspectors on-site every single day of production -- and DeNittis has piles of documents to prove it.
"There are a lot of chefs in town making their own salumi, but it's a dangerous game if you don't do it right," says Freemond, who met DeNittis soon after Il Mondo opened and helped on some of its first batches of salumi. DeNettis also makes use of pork and beef from local farms like Cure Organic and chef Hosea Rosenberg's Blackbelly. "From start to finish, I'm following old-world practices, yet meeting new-world regulations," says DeNittis.
Nathan Federico Production manager Olen Rice and Aguste Escoffier students pack sausage at IMV.
IMV boasts more than eighteen dry-cured products, some of which are DeNittis family recipes. The black pepper salami is blunt, enveloping the palate. The sopressata has a bit of a pepper kick. And the guanciale, crispy like in Freemond's Amatriciana or just sliced raw in thin strips, is pure pork candy, with a strong flavor that has no equal among cured meats. IMV uses salt harvested from an ancient sea bed in Utah, black peppercorns, juniper and bay leaf to cure and season the guanciale -- and unlike many other salumi processors, no nitrate or nitrite.
Chris Utterback Joe Freemond of Cellar Wine Bar.
"Mark is so dedicated about what he does. He is fanatical about the quality of his chubs," says Freemond, which is why Cellar serves IMV coppa, bresaola and lamb merguez sausage. In fact, it's the only salumi supplier that Freemond uses.
And what wine should you order to wash down all this beautiful meat? "I think Mark would be upset if you drank anything other than Carlo Rossi," Freemond chuckles.
Nathan Federico DeNittis and fiancé Jenna Johansen.
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