Laura Shunk dishes out some tips for the new Cafe critic

Categories: Review Preview

Thumbnail image for bday party drinking foie small.jpg
In advance of Gretchen Kurtz's debut next week as the new Cafe critic, we asked some of our previous restaurant reviewers to weigh in -- and given their jobs, we do mean weigh in -- with advice for our new newest critic. Kyle Wagner, our reviewer for close to a decade who's now the travel editor at the Denver Post, served up her thoughts first (read them here.)

Laura Shunk, who's now in New York City working with Baltz & Company, a public relations firm that works with restaurants, offered a list of the Denver spots she'll miss most on her way out of town in June. And now she has some advice for her successor:

Greetings, Gretchen! Best advice? Gird your loins...

1. I saw a reader already gave you this advice, but it bears repeating: Don't take the comments personally. You probably did a lot of work on your first review. You likely went three times, dutifully noting a deluge of insightful details, which you carefully crafted into a narrative that you are proud of. That is awesome. Here's the thing: Your review is going to run, and a lot of people aren't going to care about your nuanced observations or awe-inspiring prose. They're going to care that you are apparently the new restaurant reviewer, which means that you are a new target. And like maggots to a dead carcass, the haters will take to the comments section to suck all form of life out of you. You have landed a much-read column that allows anonymous Internet commenters. You are about to learn where your confidence comes from. "You're the most boring person that has ever walked the planet earth," they'll write, under fake names like poopy5 or, better yet, yousuck. "You're a horrible writer, and you're most likely fat and ugly." "We miss your predecessor. Westword sucks for hiring you." If you're extra lucky, they might even start a Yelp or Reddit thread about just how bad you are. And so after your first review runs, when you should be celebrating your accomplishments over a few too many beers, you may, instead, be sitting by your computer with anxiety in your heart wondering, am I boring? Horrible? Fat and ugly? Does Westword suck for hiring me? And why on earth did I do this? Do not fret: Gradually, your fans will come out of the woodwork and bat down your detractors like cats pawing dusty, fluttering moths. And weirdly, some of those dusty, fluttering moths will undergo a metamorphosis to become fan-cats ready to defend you as if you were their own sister.

2. You're going to realize quickly that people have incredibly romantic misconceptions of what it means to be a professional restaurant critic in Denver. In reality, being a food critic isn't that much different from being a professional binge-eater, except for the fact that most real binge-eaters get to blessedly shroud their habits in secrecy. Food critics are frequently forced to order five entrees for two people and endure a waiter's smirk. Or order a giant round of dessert after polishing off enough food to make the people at the next table stare in unashamed, wide-eyed wonderment. I've eaten five hot dogs in two hours for research purposes before. And I can't even count the number of times I've had two lunches and two dinners in one day in the name of the job. A lot of those second dinners took place on the side of the road while I was seatbelted into my car, shoving my face full of take-out entrees after a full meal. Because of efficiency, obviously. Sometime, perhaps while you're mid-bite of a doughnut saddled with a bacon cheeseburger that you're consuming after you've polished off a monstrous meal and milkshake, you're going to look at yourself in the rearview mirror and wonder seriously whether you need an intervention. You don't, but you might want to think about picking up a hiking hobby. And some heartburn medication.

3. As a side note to my last point, "I'm writing about Denver's restaurants" is an unbelievably convenient excuse to justify having nine cocktails on a Tuesday. But remember that former Times critic Frank Bruni paid the price for that surely universal mentality with a diagnosis of gout, and the only thing worse than trying to write drunk is trying to write hungover.

4. It's okay that you don't know everything there is to know about food, and it's definitely okay to ask experts for education. Before I had any inkling that I'd ever hold this job, I imagined food critics as the type of people who worked hard in journalism courses before flitting off to Paris or Italy to get a culinary education while they wore sundresses and meandered through farmers' markets sniffing fruit in the sunshine. They were the children who said their favorite food was foie gras, who knew that Chardonnay pairs well with lobster by the time they were eight, who've known which piece of silverware to use since they popped out of the womb and pulled themselves up to the white linen-ed table, unable to gum so much as a Cheerio, but, by god, instilled with the knowledge of just the moment to pick up the salad fork. In my imagination, they'd had mothers in the kitchen stirring big bubbling pots and engraining the secrets of cooking deep inside of their souls. They'd later use those tips and tricks against a chef who let the butter brown too long or -- gasp -- couldn't make a proper hollandaise. Food critic-ing, I thought, was a fancy profession for fancy people, the type of people who could name oyster varieties or rattle off every spice in a traditional Ethiopian wot with a comfort level most of us don't even have when we're reciting our own addresses. That was not me. I'll spare you the details, but the greatest culinary wisdom imparted from my childhood surrounded the incredible creativity my mother and grandmother employed in using the microwave and the crockpot in order to avoid ever turning on the stove. Sure, I had received a decent culinary education before I started writing. But being voraciously obsessed with food and acquiring food knowledge, I learned quickly that half the fun of writing about food is doing the research on food -- and then bringing others into what you've learned.



Sponsor Content

My Voice Nation Help
13 comments
incredulous
incredulous

Enjoyed this post, especially observation #9 - have an opinion on green chile. Why is Colorado so obsessed with green chile? I've never found green chile that was in any way inspiring, complex, interesting, or satisfying. the whole subject is annoying but if you live here you are apparently required to have an opinion. My opinion - skip it and find something more interesting on the menu. 

Jeff
Jeff

It genuinely is one of the best things Ms. Shunk ever wrote for Westword.  That's not a dig, it's a good piece.  I grew to kind of enjoy Shunk's reviews (despite her not knowing what roux was), and I'm sure I'll enjoy the new scribe too -- eventually.

davebarnes
davebarnes topcommenter

Excellent advice and well written.

DonkeyHotay
DonkeyHotay topcommenter

"... probably because one of the commenters you've become accustomed to ignoring will dismissively point out that you are wrong, and you will be forced to acknowledge that they are, annoyingly, right."

 

Bingo !!

.

 

 

Bagwhan
Bagwhan

That's the best thing Laura ever wrote for WestWord.

 

Sorry, I couldn't resist. ;-)

monopod
monopod

 @incredulous Your username is appropriate, as that's my reaction.  Not inspiring, complex, interesting, or satisfying?  I don't know what you've been eating but brother, it ain't good green chili.  Really good green chili is every bit as complex and amazing as the best bowl of red in Texas.  Of course, I'm not a native Coloradoan so I prefer mine thick with big chunks of fall-apart-tender pork shoulder and green (not Broncos orange).  Sounds to me like you just haven't found yours yet.  Keep looking!  

Bagwhan
Bagwhan

 @Jeff My joking post below notwithstanding, I do agree that it was a great piece, and that isn't a dig.

monopod
monopod

 @DonkeyHotay According to the article, you've got to reveal your excellent Korean/Thai/etc. hole-in-the-wall that no one else knows about first, before you get your acknowledgement.  What you got?

Now Trending

From the Vault

 

Loading...