Exclusive first look: The new Gaetano's reopens on Saturday

Gaetanosnew.jpg
Lori Midson

For the past several weeks, whenever I've driven down 38th Avenue, passing my beloved Gaetano's on my way to somewhere else, I've experienced that pit in my stomach, the pit that comes with the fear of the unknown -- the dread that something you've come to know so well won't ever be the same.

See also:
Demolition begins on the iconic Gaetano's

It's that sappy thing called nostalgia, and when BW Holdings (Wynkoop/Breckenridge), the entrepreneurial group that owns Gaetano's (and several more iconic Denver restaurants and watering holes), announced in early July that Gaetano's -- the Gaetano's that I grew up in -- would be undergoing a demolition, my heart sank. And mine wasn't the only one. Many of our Cafe Society commenters cried out in anguished unison, pleading with the owners to, at the very least, "keep that old Italian charm that kept people going back for all of these years."

Did they listen?

When I walked inside the doors of Gaetano's earlier this week, hesitating on the sidewalk before pulling the handle, I was determined to smile through the shock and disappointment; I was prepared for the worst.

Instead, I gazed at the new decor and nearly wept -- and not because I was disheartened but because much to my amazement, it impossibly mimicked everything I'd come to love about Gaetano's...only it was -- dare I say it? -- stunningly better.

That "old Italian charm" was evident everywhere I looked, on the walls muraled with life-size black-and-white photos of personalities who, in one way or another, were involved with the Smaldone family back in their heyday; in the crescent-shaped, tufted, burgundy channel-back booths and club chairs that, while new, definitely mirror the old days; and at the bar, where I've spent countless nights with the people I love, drinking classic cocktails and plowing through plates of spaghetti. The bar, thank the Madonna, has been pristinely preserved, the rosewood top, stained glass and ebony-and-chrome stools, proof that the People in Charge are saints, rather than sinners.

Speaking of which, the bathrooms are bedecked with "confessional" stalls, and the floor-to-ceiling painting of the "woman in paradise," which graced the wall in the then-separate private room, now poses squarely between the two bathrooms -- and she still looks as ravishing now as she did four decades ago. Preservation endures.

"I'm not going to lie: Gaetano's was tired," says Lisa Ruskaup, VP of operations, "and we felt like we could be doing a better job for the community if we gave it a little lift." There are a lot of North Denver Italian families, she adds, "who are either getting old, retiring or losing their jobs, and we wanted to give them a neighborhood place to get together -- we wanted to show them that we believe in this neighborhood, and that meant putting some love into a building that, quite frankly, was eroding."


Location Info

Gaetano's Restaurant

3760 Tejon St., Denver, CO

Category: Restaurant

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4 comments
NWDen
NWDen like.author.displayName 1 Like

It actually looks very good.  Although I wish they would have kept the Frank Sinatra shrine.  I also wish they would bring back the fat homemade spaghetti noodles (which were gone long before this outfit took over).

 

I hate the sign.  All it makes me think of is My Three Sons (the show, not the similarly named restaurant).  That sign has to go.  Ernie's brought back the old sign, why can't this place?

 

HERE is a question -  Why was Cina such a raging asshole when all of this came out?  He bashed everyone who was unhappy about this, particularly for not patronizing the place enough.  He made no mention of it being the way it is now.  He mainly bitched about how ungrateful everyone was that all of us rotten masses were to blame, so we could all just fuck off.

 

Maybe he should have kept his mouth shut and let the spokesperson quoted in this article do the talking.  There may have been less hostility.

Kitchmer
Kitchmer

I can't wait to see how the renovation turned out.  I just hope it's not a hatchet job... like poor Wazee Supper Club in LoDo.  That "renovation" turned out to be terrible - and it's since become a restaurant I'll never return to.My fingers are crossed for Gaetano's!

Read_a_Book
Read_a_Book

 @Kitchmer

 Yeah - i agree about the Supper Club.  That has been my watering hole for the last 7 years and they completely ripped the character out of it.  The response I got from the owner was 'who cares about the regulars?' - what a disaster the breck merger has been.

bobbypinz
bobbypinz like.author.displayName 1 Like

Thank the Madonna indeed. I too had feared the worst, but I'm thrilled my old haunt is renewed, not remodeled! Thank you BW Holdings and thank you Lori for keeping the faith and the intriguing photos. See you at the bar!

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