I brake for the Denver Biscuit Company

Categories: Review Preview

markmangerbiscuit.jpg
Mark Manger
Do not try eating the Franklin from the Denver Biscuit Co. on the run.
Since when does a 30 percent chance mean it's actually going to rain? I mean, come on -- this is Denver we're talking about. I know we're in a drought, but you'd think the clouds could have had the decency to hold their drops until the afternoon: Monday mornings are hard enough without the additional challenge of being all drippy and gray.

So there I was yesterday, windshield wipers tapping, red lights reflecting off the wet pavement on East Colfax, when I spotted the Denver Biscuit Co. On a whim, I pulled in and ordered a biscuit to go. Three minutes later I was back in the car, the buttery smell of my gigantic biscuit filling the air.

See also:
-Atomic Cowboy's pair of restaurants, Fat Sully's and Denver Biscuit Company, might make you stay forever

- Tables: The family operation is both comfortable and surprising
- Good execution turns into good pizza at Lucky Pie

FatSully's-Drew Ashleigh.jpg
Mark Manger
Drew and Ashleigh Shader at Atomic Cowboy.
Early on, Drew and Ashleigh Shader, the founders of Atomic Cowboy, decided this part of Colfax could use a couple of comfortable eateries as well as a bar, so they introduced Fat Sully's, which serves pizza late at night, and the Denver Biscuit Company, which is open from 8 a.m. to 2 p.m. and offers fresh-baked buttermilk biscuits every day.

I like to make my own biscuits -- that way the whole house smells good, not just the car. But what a biscuit this was: hot to the touch, with a golden top and a mound of flaky middle just begging for butter and jam. I hate biscuits that are pale and don't have crunchy edges, because they get gummy when you chew them. I liked the way this biscuit separated into layers and how it was slightly misshapen, making it feel homemade. Plus it was huge, so it wasn't gone in two bites!

I wish I had one now.

I try hard not to link food with emotions, but let's be honest: Some foods really do bring joy. In my review this week, I'll look at another place in town that serves biscuits and other Southern-style comfort food. Is Sassafras American Eatery worth a detour the next time the forecast calls for rain? Find out tomorrow, when the review is posted here.



Location Info

Denver Biscuit Company

3237 E. Colfax Ave., Denver, CO

Category: Restaurant

Sassafras American Eatery

2637 W. 26th Ave., Denver, CO

Category: Restaurant


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5 comments
patricia.calhoun
patricia.calhoun moderator editortopcommenter

my apologies for the headline confusion. After putting that first headline on Gretchen's post, I realized it could be confusing, and switched it -- not quite fast enough. Sorry.

Becca
Becca

Hmmm. I fully expected this Review Preview to mention Rise and Shine Biscuits, which has two locations in Denver, especially given the title; what gives?

Mantonat
Mantonat topcommenter

 @Becca I kinda thought "The Denver Biscuit Company" was a dead give away.

Becca
Becca

 @Mantonat  @Becca Actually, before I posted my comment, the title of the post was, "Rise and Shine at Denver Biscuit Company."  But it was subsequently changed to read "I Brake for Denver Biscuit Company."

Mantonat
Mantonat topcommenter

 @Becca Ah, that makes more sense.

 

Hey, at least we all now know there are multiple biscuit options in this city! Although no doubt someone will declare the biscuit trend "over" just to be the first to do so.

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