Trillium: a taste of this week's review

Categories: Review Preview

ryan leinonen.jpg
Mark Manger
Ryan Leinonen at his restaurant, Trillium.
Unless you're a movie buff, you probably don't remember The Doctor, a touching early-'90s film about a surgeon diagnosed with cancer. Having seen life through a patient's lens, the doctor, played by Oscar winner William Hurt, learns to practice a different, more empathetic kind of medicine after his recovery.

Ryan Leinonen, chef-owner of Trillium, the Scandinavian-American hot spot that opened last December in the Ballpark neighborhood, should order the movie from Netflix on his next day off.

I say this not because Leinonen needs an etiquette lesson. Though I've never met him -- as a critic, I dine incognito -- I have spoken to him by phone, and the Michigan native comes off as both passionate and smart, with a refreshing lack of tolerance for the division so often found in professional kitchens. But after all his years as a high-end chef -- Leinonen spent time at Colt & Gray and the Kitchen and was the opening chef at Root Down -- I think he would benefit from seeing Trillium not in chef's whites, but in street clothes....

Hungry to know more? Read the full review of Trillium here.




Location Info

Trillium

2134 Larimer St., Denver, CO

Category: Restaurant

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