So Perfect Eats: a taste of this week's review

Categories: Review Preview

pastry case.jpg
Mark Manger
I can hear the noise already, a rising roar of complaint over my decision to spend a thousand-plus words on So Perfect Eats, a two-year-old eatery in Cherry Creek North that feels more like a grab-and-go lunch spot than a restaurant worthy of review. But before you rant -- whether online or under your breath while sipping coffee and flipping print -- about my choice to cover a place without servers, liquor license or proper (not paper) plates, please hear my defense, which consists of two words: Craig Claiborne.

As the food editor of the New York Times for nearly three decades, Claiborne etched the rules for the nascent industry of restaurant criticism -- namely, that critics should be anonymous, should dine at an establishment at least twice before forming an opinion, and should not accept freebies of any kind. These notions, though not literally set in stone, remained firmly in place for critics nationwide until food bloggers blasted them apart a decade ago, often passing judgment after one meal, openly accepting free food, and making no pretense of anonymity. Such behavior would surely have elicited a horrified gasp from the father of restaurant criticism. But my selection of So Perfect Eats? I have every reason to believe that Claiborne would have approved....

Hungry to know more? Read the full review of So Perfect Eats here, and see the slide show here.




Location Info

Venue

Map

So Perfect Eats

278 Fillmore St., Denver, CO

Category: Restaurant

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1 comments
Michael564
Michael564

Way to go, Gretchen.  But be wary of grabbing the coattails of the God of Reviews. If you really want to follow in Mr. Clairborne's footsteps, then be prepared to write at least 2 reviews per week --- and venture out of your comfort zone! One of the beautiful aspects of Mr. Clairborne's style was that he travelled all over NYC, reviewing both the known and unknown -- and searching to discover the nugget of 'what will be next' in terms of both quality and culture! He is almost solely responsible for Manhattanites taking the subway into the depths of the outer boroughs to experience international cuisine on a home-cooked, personal level. So get out of Cheesy Creek and venture far and wide around Denver. Kick over rocks and tell us where to find the best spots for pad thai, be bim bop, chicken tikka, kitfo, etc. Just avoid the green chile and breakfast burrito recommendations, we've got them coming out of our "ears".

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