Exclusive first look: Old Major, Justin Brunson's "elevated farmhouse cuisine" restaurant, is now open in Highland

Desserts, often an afterthought, are sublime, thanks to young pastry magician Nadine Donovan, whose sugar finales literally had me stealing plates -- and nearly licking them clean -- from our neighbors at the bar. Her baked Alaska reveals an impossibly perfect meringue, the blood orange glacé, a subtle jolt of citrus, and her malted chocolate cream pie...well, let's just say that I experienced what can only be called euphoria.

Considering the (near) perfection of the kitchen and the bar program, the space is required to follow suit, and it does with its beautifully crafted farmhouse tables and chairs, prominent meat hooks that support the conversation-piece light fixtures, high, wooden beamed, sloped ceilings and even the plateware -- stark white -- and glassware have been given careful consideration; hand-sewn linens are forthcoming, as is Brunson's front-and-center meat-curing room, which is currently in the process of solidifying its HACCP (Hazard Analysis and Critical Control Points principles to ensure effective food safety) plan.

Are there improvements to be made? Few. In fact, the only noticeable taint are the lights above the bar tables, which are just a bit too bright, and those, I'm told, will be quickly corrected. And speaking of the bar, a bar-only board will be available in the coming weeks, as will lunch. For now, dinner is served seven nights a week.

The expectations for old Major are pressingly high -- but if my dinner on Saturday night is any indication of what this city can expect in the future, it doesn't seem a stretch to say that we've just been bestowed with a restaurant that should be on everyone's bucket list.

Herewith, a photo gallery of the finished space, the food, the cocktails, the menus and the revelry.

Location Info

Venue

Map

Old Major

3316 Tejon St., Denver, CO

Category: Restaurant

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10 comments
whippingcupcakes
whippingcupcakes

My original post linked to a story about McDonald's fish nuggets, not Old Major. I think Old Major sounds fantastic. Too bad Westword can't figure out what response to keep with what story.

ebethcheese
ebethcheese

Why are all these readers such douchebags?  Didn't anyone learn the old adage; "if you have nothing nice to say, say nothing at all"  Sending all these anonymous quotes bashing a journalist seem to be nothing more than a personal ego trip.  If you don't like what you read, you have options...1) Politely disagree...2)Don't read it any more...3)Write your own damn blog!

bourgogneparnuit
bourgogneparnuit

Man oh man- this is like a ridiculous session of ass-kissing where emotions include the whole range - from tears and elation. With adjectives like refined, unassailable, gorgeous, graceful, sublime, artistically astounding, royal, ethereal and beyond, this post exhausts all possible compliments. Also, can you count to five? "four categories: Small plates, The Farmer, The Butcher, The Monger and Sides."

bhoffmeyer
bhoffmeyer

People like these commenters crack me up. If you're not interested in restaurant news in DEN, don't read this page. Trolls. 

whippingcupcakes
whippingcupcakes

Congratulations on eating neatly 900 calories of McShit.

Philo99
Philo99

Old Major? Is this place new? I don't think I ever heard of it.


Yes I am being facetious.

bourgogneparnuit
bourgogneparnuit

@ebethcheese Come on. No one is attacking anyone here. Did you read the post? It's like we all don't need to go check out the restaurant because someone just deemed it to be so extraordinary that it defies all superlatives. It's ridiculous that a "journalist" as you call it can't figure out a way to convey the image of a new restaurant without abusing every adjective in the dictionary. 

ebethcheese
ebethcheese

@whippingcupcakes  If that's McShit....bring it on!   I can recommend a few places that might suit your lowly palate....  It was, of course, way more than 900 calories - but anyone who knows anything about food would know that.  It was well worth every minute of they morning after run.  Would do it again and again!  Simply a spectacular meal from beginning to end.

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