Cream and butter can make food taste better -- but True Food Kitchen doesn't use that trick

Categories: Review Preview

TrueFood 004.jpg
Mark Manger
Chef Alejandro German at True Food Kitchen.
When the Center for Science in the Public Interest handed out its Xtreme Eating Awards last month for the least-nutritious dishes in the nation, people yawned. Except PR people, that is: They went into overdrive.

The list was as shocking as ever, but the truth simply doesn't hurt as much when you've heard it before. And we've been hearing for years that dishes like bistro shrimp pasta at the Cheesecake Factory contain more calories than you should eat in a day and enough saturated fat to last the work week.

See also:
- First look: True Food Kitchen opens in Cherry Creek
- Review: Uncle, Tommy Lee's Highland noodle shop, will bowl you over
- Hot damn! Central Bistro & Bar redefines what a neighborhood restaurant can be

Maybe we'd pay more attention if we knew that restaurants like Johnny Rockets, Chili's and the Cheesecake Factory aren't the only ones loading up on bad stuff in the name of good taste. All chefs have tricks up their sleeves, whether it's twice-frying potatoes or using butter to top off a steak.

"What I'd been taught is a little butter, a little cream make it delicious," acknowledges Alejandro German, former executive chef at Osteria Marco and NoRTH.

Now, however, he's running the show at True Food Kitchen in Cherry Creek, where he says he's "learned how to make it good without adding those components."

Find out just how good True Food's healthy fare is when my review is posted here tomorrow.



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2 comments
rusty_shackleford
rusty_shackleford

@Mantonat completely beat me to the punch. Blaming saturated fat is one reason (of many) we're dealing with a public health crisis. Look at the trend lines for diabetes, heart disease, and obesity. Then go ahead and take a peek at when the FDA guidelines began to change - butter, heavy cream, and lard were blacklisted. We're due for a major correction of the upside down food pyramid and a widespread acknowledgement that a large portion of what we've been convinced is healthy, is literally the exact opposite. Restaurants like True Food might have the best of intentions, but this "fat is always bad" conventional wisdom needs to be completely reset.

Mantonat
Mantonat topcommenter

It would be so easy if health problems could be pinned on the butter and cream associated with restaurant food. Unfortunately, America's dietary breakdown begins in the supermarkets, where packaged foods high in HFCS, sodium, nutritionally barren processed grains, industrially produced oils, and artificial colors and flavors are the standard and beef, pork, and chicken come straight from the factory farm laden with hormones and antibiotics.

Well-sourced butter and cream from grass-fed animals will never kill anyone when used in moderation to add flavor and texture to other healthy foods. Fat doesn't make you fat.

Maybe the food is amazing at True Food, but they're doing a disservice to diners if they cater to the fear and hype propagated by a national media obsessed with America's obesity problem while failing to understand the basic mechanisms of human biochemistry and metabolism.

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