Carnitas Estilo Michoacan: Take the chilaquiles and run
In A Federal Case, I'll be eating my way up Federal Boulevard - south to north - within Denver city limits. I'll be skipping the national chains and per-scoop Chinese joints, but otherwise I'll report from every vinyl booth, walk-up window and bar stool where food is served. Here's the report on this week's stop...
Mark Antonation The salsa bar at Carnitas Michoacan.
When you strip away all the modern expectations of eating out -- friendly service, pleasant décor, welcoming atmosphere, a certain level of cleanliness -- what you are left with is the food itself. Whether it's a family restaurant, a bar and grill, or a fast-food joint, a minimum level of comfort isn't too much to ask. But in the absence of a single other reason to spend your money at a restaurant, the food had better be pretty damned good. And on a street that boasts more taquerias than gas stations, a place like Carnitas Estilo Michoacan has nothing to fall back on but the flavors, aromas and textures of what comes out of the kitchen.
The little green shack that you might drive right past or mistake for a medical marijuana dispensary already has a reputation for mixing up some of the best salsas in town, but as much as I love salsa, I generally need something good to spoon it onto. I've been known to sip directly from the little plastic salsa cup and I definitely see nothing wrong with mopping up the remnants with a simple corn tortilla, but ultimately that salsa should serve as a complement, rather than a cover-up, to whatever mound of shredded or chopped meat I've selected.
|The little green shack.|
Continue reading for more on our visit to Carnitas Estilo Michoacan.