Reader: If you like chewy-ass dough, by all means go to Pizzeria Locale

Categories: Cafe Society

Danielle Lirette
Pizza in the oven at Denver's Pizzeria Locale.
While some pizza fans are still debating what makes a good Chicago-style, deep-dish pie -- and whether it's even possible to get one in the Mile High City -- others have moved on to the Neopolitan pizza at Denver's Pizzeria Locale, which Gretchen Kurtz reviews this week. The original Pizzeria Locale opened in Boulder in 2011, right next to sibling Frasca Food and Wine; Denver's version is designed as more of a fast-casual operation.

And diners give it mixed reviews.

See also: Review of Pizzeria Locale -- Will Frasca's dough boys get a pizza the fast-casual action?

"Really yummy pizza," says Chella.

But then there's this from jrojasaboc:

Worst pizza I ever had in Denver. I live in this neighborhood. Go to Pie Hole or even Fat Sully's instead. The service is fast but the dough is undercooked at a mere two-minute cook time. Reminiscent of the Amy's Bakery featured on Kitchen Nightmares. So if you like chewy-ass dough and undercooked watery veggies and scant toppings, by all means go. Plus the limited green options is just crappy. I love arugula but come on!

Oh, and by the way: Frasca is one of my top five best restaurants.

Have you been to Pizzeria Locale in Denver? What did you think? And have you been to Pizzeria Locale in Boulder? How do they compare?

Read Gretchen Kurtz's Pizzeria Locale review (and more comments) here, and dish on deep-dish pie here.

Location Info

Pizzeria Locale

550 Broadway Blvd, Denver, CO

Category: Restaurant

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"Chewy-ass dough"? What's chewy -- the dough or the ass? If the former, it is presumably Pizzeria Locale's. If the latter, whose?


First off, I think Neopolitan pizza is hugely overrated in general. That being said, I disagree with jrojasaboc and think Pizzeria Locale is doing a solid job. It is not my favorite pizza around, but I think the crust is fantastic. The slight crispiness plus the good chew is a winning combo. It's way better than Marco's Coal Fired pizza IMO. Something about the topping/sauce combos keeps the Locale pizza from being great, but it is really, really good. 

And the value proposition of Locale is unbeatable. I can get a good size pizza, glass of really nice house wine and a perfect size budino for around $13 - $14. That is insane compared to anything of similar quality.

And god knows why anyone would bother with Pie Hole or Fat Sully's in Baker. They are just redundantly trying to occupy the same niche that Famous Pizza has been serving for years, but they aren't doing it as well.


Pizzeria Locale's only problem is trying to dumb down their Denver menu by offering things like green peppers on a pizza anyway.  I'm sure things like that do turn out "undercooked and watery."  Trying to do American-style versions of Italian pizzas simply doesn't work.

Based on jrojasaboc's suggested alternatives, he and I have very different taste in pizza.  Fat Sully's and Pie Hole are the sorts of places you go for big, greasy, pseudo-NY slices of the pizza-like stuff that has evolved in the U.S. over the last 100 years or so.  I'm not disparaging it.  That kind of stuff can occasionally hit the spot (it's particularly useful for absorbing alcohol), but if I really want pizza, I want something resembling what you'd find in Naples.  

The original Boulder outpost of Pizzeria Locale does the best version of actual pizza in Colorado, and the Denver quick-service concept offers a fairly reasonable facsimile, but you have to stick to the "Neapolitan Classics" section of the menu.

Lightly topped pizzas and a somewhat chewy crust are trademarks of authentic pizza, so I'd agree that if that's not what jrojasaboc likes, he should steer clear. 

The two-minute cook time is not especially fast.  Associazione Vera Pizza Napoletana, the body that certifies pizzerias in Italy and around the world as being authentic, requires that pizzas be cooked at 900 degrees for not more than 90 seconds.  The only VPN-certified pizzeria in Colorado is the Marco's Coal-Fired on Larimer.

ScubaSteve topcommenter

Since I'm not much of a pizza fan, I'll stay away.

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