Sugarmill has a smushed name, but an expansive menu
Restaurateurs must have taken the same continuing education class on how to choose a name for their new ventures. I've lost count of how many spots have opened lately that were christened either with two words smushed together (as in Lower48 Kitchen) or joined by an ampersand or "and." Pastry chef Noah French and veteran restaurateur Troy Guard opted for the former when they launched Sugarmill late last year.
Sugarmill is in the heart of the Ballpark neighborhood, adjacent to Los Chingones, another Guard venture that opened in December. (While Los Chingones doesn't fit the naming pattern, his new steakhouse, Guard and Grace, does.)
Danielle Lirette Beef Wellington at Sugarmill.
Despite its smushed construction, Sugarmill's name is easy enough to understand -- except for one thing. The name doesn't tell the whole story of this spot. Sugarmill sounds like a dessert bar, yet the restaurant is open for three meals a day -- and beyond -- serving everything from burritos to beef Wellington to cake.
Find out what other surprises are in store there when my review is posted here tomorrow.