Filling mahalo leg with pork at L & L Hawaiian Barbecue

Categories: ethniche

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Mark Antonation
For more than a year, Mark Antonation ate his way up Federal Boulevard. With that journey done, he'll now explore different cuisines from around the globe right here in metro Denver, one month at a time, in Ethniche.

Pigs, like people, arrived in waves to the islands of Hawaii, tagging along with the first Polynesians but also bolstering their genetic stock from the subsequent European influx. The feral descendents of those seafaring swine now spread havoc across the archipelago, rooting up native flora and crowding out more delicate species. The primary solution -- eating them -- has had minimal impact on their numbers, but has at least led to the perfection of pork-based recipes over generations. If L & L Hawaiian Barbecue could somehow figure out how to effectively cull and serve Hawaiian pigs at its many locations (175 and growing) throughout the United States, it could perhaps finally provide a solution to this particularly invasive -- if tasty -- problem. Until then, we'll have to be content with L & L's pork-heavy menu, whatever the source.

See also: Speaking Spammish at Iwayama Sushi & Da Big Kahuna Bistro

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Mark Antonation
The building blocks of Hawaiian grub.
I met a few friends for a Saturday lunch at L & L, and it seemed as if half of Aurora had similar ideas of pigging out on plate lunches, Asian-inspired grilled or breaded meats, and the pressed, maki-style rice rolls called musubi. It wasn't just busy: It was just short of chaos, with a line out the door, every table full, and customers lingering in every open space waiting for a takeout order or a seat to open.

The long but quickly moving queue gave us just enough time to study the menu and come up with a few good picks while contemplating the meaning of the word "mahalo," which, judging by the signs around the joint, could mean anything from "put your trash here" to "thank you" to "you're crazy if you think you're getting another free serving of Sriracha sauce."

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Mark Antonation
Lau lau and kalua pork combo plate.
In addition to two kinds of roasted pork, Spam in two different preparations, and pork sliders, we also ordered a Korean-style beef and chicken plate lunch, a mound of loco moco, and some malasadas -- sugary little balls of fried dough just big enough to require two bites. With our selections shoveled into Styrofoam clamshells (even though we ordered to eat in -- takeout orders go into additional plastic bags), our little table soon resembled a scale map of the Hawaiian islands modeled from less than ecologically friendly materials: A double-stack of plate lunches representing the Big Island, the short-rib combo standing in for Maui, and the remaining smaller containers representing the more western isles.

Keep reading for more on L & L.


Location Info

L & L Hawaiian Barbecue

14221 E. Cedar Ave., Aurora, CO

Category: Restaurant


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6 comments
TheFabulousMarkT
TheFabulousMarkT topcommenter

Wow, and I thought I was bad with the puns. [mwahaha]

But yes, I agree about the loco moco - this dish was in fact a spur-of-the-moment, out-of-necessity creation to feed some very hungry young guys in a woefully understocked Hilo diner.back in 1949.

So perhaps unsurprisingly, it's not the classiest of dishes. :D But still tasty.

If they can get the kitchen situation sorted out, I know that the owner of Kava Lounge in Boulder (who is himself Samoan) was planning to offer Hawaiian small-plates at one point. However, that locale may be a bit more wild-n-crazy than you had in mind...

eefette
eefette

I love the food at L&L -- spam musubi, mac salad... mmmmm.  But it is absolute chaos in there every single time I go.  I've had to eat my food on the sidewalk or in my car (more than once) because there are no tables.

xyzabc
xyzabc

I've got to try it.  I miss macaroni salad/hawaiian BBQ in Wahiawa while stationed at Schofield Barracks.

TheFabulousMarkT
TheFabulousMarkT topcommenter

I wasn't trying to imply that they were having a particular problem in the kitchen - just that they were focusing on getting the club itself up and running first...

TheFabulousMarkT
TheFabulousMarkT topcommenter

@eefette I have a feeling they'll have to find a bigger spot sooner rather than later...

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