Happy Hour: The 9th Door's Spanish siesta is a snooze

Categories: Happy Hour

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Chris Utterback
Call it the original happy hour. Though its been falling out of practice in modern Spain, the siesta has influenced the country's food culture over the centuries. Spanish restaurants often offer a prix fixe menu during the 2:00 to 5:00 p.m. lunch break, when office workers flee en masse to enjoy a nice meal or a quick nap. But while the siesta is in decline in Spain, almost every restaurant in Denver is expected to offer a happy hour. Can the Spanish flavors of the 9th Door stand out amongst all the noise?

See also: Happy Hour: The Populist keeps it simple and honest

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Matt Osier
Spanish chorizo serve tapas-style at the 9th Door.
The newly installed 9th Door in the Beauvallon building (the original 9th Door opened in LoDo nearly ten years ago) is more appropriate to the European bent of the building than the space's previous occupant, Attivo Pizza & Subs. Including the Moorish light fixtures and the FC Barcelona scarf above the bar, it's a pretty straightforward tapas spot. The menu of hot and cold small plates draws mainly from the meat and potatoes and paprika region of Castilla la Mancha, where party goers in Madrid wake from their siestas to plates of patatas bravas and slices of chorizo.

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Served from 4:00 to 6:30 p.m., the 9th Door's happy hour is the closest you'll get to that experience on Broadway, a narrowed selection of tapas and cocktails are turned around in minutes and discounted to within the reach of hungry students and artists.

If Spain is synonymous with anything beyond paella and crippling bankruptcy, it's got to be sangria. In white or red, the 9th Door's sangria ($4) strikes the appropriate balance between soda pop and cheap wine, while a superb Spanish 75 cocktail ($5) counteracted the sweetness with gin, tart lemon and a splash of cava. For a real Spanish experience, grab yourself a bland lager: Barcelona's Estrella Damm is available at $3 a pour.

Part of the appeal of most good tapas joints is their casual, ramshackle feel. But the 9th Door just didn't seem to be trying that hard at happy hour. The tostas, a part of any good tapas course, came on bland baguettes and with indifferent toppings, like the Basque tostas ($2.65) with nearly-raw tomato and a smear of goat cheese, or the Manchego tostas ($2.45), topped with an oily slice of cut-rate 'Chego.

And compared to the downright sultry mussel plate at The Populist, the 9th Door's saffron cream mussels ($3.78) might as well be wearing a bathrobe and bunny slippers. Still, it's tough to quibble with the prices. The restaurant seems to understand the Spanish conception of tapas as cheap plates meant to go down with plenty of wine. But when there are so many great happy hours in this town, it's not enough to be merely cheap.

Perfect for: A second or third date. Wow your significant other with your four or five words of high school Spanish!

Can't miss: A glass of house wine ($4), almost mandatory with any meal in Spain -- the 9th Door's house red is pretty respectable.


Location Info

9th Door

925 Lincoln St., Denver, CO

Category: Restaurant


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5 comments
Andrew Padbury
Andrew Padbury

To clarify, NO ONE eats during these hours because everything is closed and they are ASLEEP!

Andrew Padbury
Andrew Padbury

So much wrong here. Siestas are because it's HOT. People sleep between 2 and 5 and THEN go back to work. Tapas are a completely different thing and still going strong at about 10pm. Just because your know two Spanish words doesn't mean they have anything to do with one another.

DonkeyHotay
DonkeyHotay topcommenter

Here's the difference -- In Spain, bars were required by law to offer some food with every beer/drink purchased, so most Tapas in Spain are FREE with every beer.


And most Spanish tapas -- with the exception of Brit owned craperias -- are way better than the overpriced pretentious pap pushed by U$ restaurants.



ScubaSteve
ScubaSteve topcommenter

@DonkeyHotay 

In California, by law, food of some kind must be available in all liquor stores and bars.  That's why you always see a deli or sandwich counter in a liquor store, as well as snacks (at least) in bars there.

DonkeyHotay
DonkeyHotay topcommenter

@ScubaSteve ... the noted difference being that in Spain, those tapas -- Jamon serrano, Boquerones, Croquetas, Gambas al ajillo, Tortilla española, Albondigas en salsa, Patatas bravas, Pulpo, Queso y Aceitunas -- are FREE with each glass of beer or wine purchased.


A far cry from offering a bag of stale Doritos or some peanuts for $2.


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