In A Federal Case, I'll be eating my way up Federal Boulevard - south to north - within Denver city limits. I'll be skipping the national chains and per-scoop Chinese joints, but otherwise I'll report from every vinyl booth, walk-up window and bar stool where food is served. Here's the report on this week's stop...
What is it about restaurant menus hawking the cuisines of multiple countries that makes us cringe a little and step on the gas pedal so that we cruise on past? We're all food adventurers here, right? When I was a kid, I loved the idea of topping off my plate of cheesy enchiladas with a sticky wedge of baklava or sitting wide-eyed before a towering mound of those whacky Irish nachos. But as adults, we mostly turn up our noses in scorn; surely no one chef and staff can turn out quality plates of Greek, Mexican and Italian from one kitchen. And just forget any notions of authenticity when a menu features Asian cuisine from more than one country. But this is exactly the mission of Masa Asian Kitchen: filling bellies with a variety of specialties from the vast quadrant of the globe that encompasses Japan, China, Vietnam, and Thailand.
See also: At J's Noodles Star Thai, rice dishes also shine