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| Yigit Pura: How sweet it is! |
It's nice when contests end the way they should. Of the three finalists, Morgan is the master technician, cool and generally unflappable, and Danielle is strong on taste, not quite as strong on finesse. But Yigit, who has both heart and an impressive range of skills, wound up winning the first-ever Top Chef: Just Desserts title last night.
The last test was to make a four-course dessert tasting menu. For the prep, the finalists were given sous chefs, all highly respected professionals. Morgan got Claudia Fleming, a traditionalist baffled by his molecular gastronomic approach (I know no one actually says molecular gastronomy any more, but I don't know what else to call it). She disliked his macho posturing, and they didn't work together well. Danielle was paired with Elizabeth Faulkner, who willingly and good-naturedly shelled hundreds of pistachios for pistachio ice cream. Yigit's sous was Sherry Yard, and you knew they were off to a good start when you saw them actually dancing together while they prepped.
As for concept: Danielle went for flavors she loved and knew would work well, beginning with a cheese offering -- hazelnut cake with Spanish goat cheese and fig jam. Yigit's fanciful notion was that he was taking the judges out on a date, starting with flirtation -- cucumber-lime sorbet -- and ending with a satisfying, let's-go-home together hazelnut dacquoise with milk jam and caramel ice cream. Morgan wanted to take it to the max: Rather charmingly, he envisioned light broken into layers of color. His first offering, a passion fruit cannoli with mango carpaccio, fluid gel (I've always wanted to taste fluid gel, haven't you?) and tarragon jelly, and his last plate, which featured a perfectly layered baumkuchen and an impeccable square of transparent caramel laid over creme brulee, were visual poetry. Ironically, given his mastery of chemistry, he was brought down by a very traditional sweet: His chocolate souffles fell, and some were undercooked.
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